How long does chestnut fencing last?

Properly installed cleft chestnut can last for decades. Post life depends mainly on soil and drainage.

Does chestnut fencing need treating?

No. Its natural tannins protect it, so it's normally left untreated to weather to silver-grey.

Yes. It's a traditional paddock fence. For horses we usually recommend three rails and a suitable height for the animals.

That's a reaction between the tannins and non-galvanised steel. Galvanised or stainless fixings prevent it.

Get in touch: we can quote for supply and installation across Surrey and the surrounding area.

Natural durability: chestnut heartwood is rich in tannins, which help it resist rot without pressure treatment.
Sustainable: it's grown in coppiced woodland across the South East, where it regrows from the stump after cutting.
Cleft, not sawn: chestnut is traditionally split along the grain, which keeps the fibres intact and sheds water better than sawn timber.
Looks right in rural settings, and weathers naturally with no painting or staining needed.

Cleft post and rail: two- or three-rail fencing with rails fitted into mortised posts. It's ideal for paddocks, field boundaries, driveways and estates, and a common choice for horses.
Chestnut paling (spile) fencing: split chestnut pales held together with twisted galvanised wire, supplied in rolls and fixed to posts. It's quick to put up, works for gardens, temporary boundaries and protecting young hedges, and comes in a range of heights.
Post and rail with stock netting: post and rail backed with wire netting to keep sheep, dogs or rabbits in or out.
Gates and field gates to match.

Confirm your boundary line, and talk to neighbours where the fence is shared.
Check for underground services before any posts go in.
Planning: in England, a fence, wall or gate generally doesn't need planning permission if it's no more than 2 metres high, or 1 metre next to a road used by vehicles. Listed buildings, conservation areas and some planning conditions can change this, so check with your local council if you're unsure.
Think about what the fence is for (horses, livestock, privacy, looks), because that decides the type and height.

01
Survey and set out
We walk the line, mark the corners, gates and changes of direction, and agree the height and spacing with you.
02
Strainer and gate posts
The heavier posts at the ends, corners and gates go in first and are firmly set, because they take the load.
03
Intermediate posts
Posts are driven or dug and rammed at even spacings along a string line, so the fence runs straight and level.
04
Rails or paling
Rails are fitted into the mortises, or paling is unrolled, tensioned and fixed to the posts.
05
Fixings
We use galvanised or stainless fixings. The tannins in chestnut react with plain steel and cause black staining and corrosion.
06
Gates and finishing
Gates are hung, levels checked, and the site left tidy.

Free site visits across Surrey & Sussex. Tell us about your project and we'll be in touch.