Building a Sand School (Manège): Construction, Surfaces and Planning Permission

A good sand school (also called a manège or arena) is built in layers: a level, well-drained base, a stone sub-base, a separation membrane and a riding surface that suits how you ride. Drainage is what makes or breaks it. Most new sand schools in England need planning permission, especially on agricultural land or in the Green Belt. This guide covers sizes, construction, surfaces and planning, based on the arenas we build across Surrey.

What size sand school do I need?

  • 20 x 40 metres: the size of a small dressage arena and the most popular for private yards.
  • 20 x 60 metres: a full size dressage arena, ideal for competition training.
  • Jumping: allow more space, often 30 x 60 metres or larger, so you can ride a course of fences.
  • Lunging only: a round pen or a smaller arena of around 20 x 20 metres.
  • Allow extra width outside the fence line for drainage, a track for machinery and any banking.

Does a sand school need planning permission?

  • In most cases, yes. A manège is normally treated as an engineering operation and a change of use, so it needs planning permission, especially on agricultural land.
  • Councils will look at the visual impact on the landscape, lighting, drainage, access and whether the use is private or commercial.
  • In the Green Belt or the Surrey Hills National Landscape, a well-designed private arena close to existing buildings has the best chance of approval.
  • Floodlights usually need to be included in the application and may be restricted.

Choosing a surface

  • Silica sand: the base of most surfaces. It must be clean, sharp and graded correctly, as builders' sand breaks down and turns to mud.
  • Sand and fibre: silica sand mixed with textile or polypropylene fibre for better grip and stability. A popular all-round choice.
  • Rubber: shredded rubber mixed with sand to reduce compaction and frost. Cheaper but can be dusty and needs topping up.
  • Wax coated: sand and fibre coated in wax, which needs little watering and stays consistent, at a higher cost.
  • Woodchip or bark: a cheaper option for turnout and schooling, but it breaks down and needs replacing more often.

How we build a sand school

  1. 01

    Survey and set out

    We survey the levels, check soil and drainage and set out the arena, including any planning drawings needed.

  2. 02

    Excavate and level

    Topsoil is stripped and the formation dug and graded to a slight fall so water runs to the drains.

  3. 03

    Install drainage

    Perforated land drains are laid in a herringbone pattern in gravel trenches, connected to a perimeter drain and an outlet or soakaway.

  4. 04

    Membrane and sub-base

    A geotextile membrane is laid, then a compacted layer of clean stone to give a stable, free-draining base.

  5. 05

    Separation layer

    A second membrane or porous layer stops the surface mixing into the stone.

  6. 06

    Fencing and kickboards

    Post and rail fencing goes in around the arena, with kickboards to keep the surface in.

  7. 07

    Lay the surface

    The chosen surface is spread to an even depth, typically 100 to 150 mm, and levelled.

Frequently asked questions

Planning a sand school?

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